consideration the color of your hair. A BRUNETTE may find that her whole look becomes too dark if she uses dark eye color. Instead, she may want to choose a lovely shade of aqua or tur- quoise or a pale shade of green or blue or any of the lavender shades, the heathers or the lilacs. They're all very pretty on brown eyes. If this con- trasting color is used from the BOTTOM OF THE UPPER LID up to the crease, then the en- tire eye area will be enhanced by the use of a rusty brown from the CREASE TO THE BROW. Thus the brunette will have the highlighting of the eye provided by the color closest to it and still achieve depth for the over- all eye area by the use of the brown, not in its darkest but rather in a redder variation, on the upper lid.

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For the BROWN-EYED wo- with BLONDE or RED hair, a very pretty look can be achieved by the use of a soft teal shade or any shade in the plum family; the heathers or a very subtle sage green will also be correct.

For BLACK EYES, whether of a black woman or a Caucasian, I like to use brighter colors but IN A VERY SMALL AMOUNT. In other words, it shouldn't be the entire lid that is shadow- ed in blue or gray or turquoise. The color should be used very close to the lashes, both on the top lid, with an eye-shadow applicator, and UNDER the bottom lashes, with a pencil of the same color, thus creating an intensity of color but on a SMALL surface. For the rest of the lid any pale shade--pale beige, pale pink, pale lilac, pale brown----could go over the entire upper lid area. But the deep color should go only very near the lashes.

The time of day when eye makeup will be worn is very important from the point of view of appropriateness and lighting. Every woman needs a good makeup mirror; bathrooms

seldom come equipped with one, and consequently makeup is generally applied in front of the poorly lit mirror of the medicine cabinet that comes with a house or an apartment. Therefore a makeup mirror with an adjustable light is a must.

Even after you have put on your makeup in front of a good mirror, there should be additional checking in the var- ious lights to which you'll be subjected once you go out. If you're going to be out during the day, check your makeup near a window. If you're going out for the evening, use your own living room light as a guide.

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In order to obtain the best possible eye makeup results for yourself, you should be aware, first, of all the FORMATS available, and then of the tech- niques for faultless APPLICA- TION.

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.EYE SHADOW FORMATS..

Eye-shadow coloring comes in several different forms. There is the CREAM, which was developed for its nondrying effects and is made in many very pretty shades. But, alas, it is not long-lasting and often runs into the creases of the lids, becoming very messy-looking, and

is therefore impractical for most purposes. There is also a CREAM LIQUID which comes out of a wand. I feel that these wands tend to apply too much color, and they get coated and tacky after they've been used for a while.

In addition, there are those fat CRAYON PENCILS, which are one of the newest makeup products. I prefer these for the quick five-minute makeup, for coloring under the bottom lashes, and for lining and shading rather than for over-all applica- tion of color. A pencil, even a soft one, is not the kindest thing for use use on the delicate eyelid and must be used with the utmost care.

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CREAMY PRESSED POW- DER EYE SHADOW is the most perfect form we have today. It can be applied with the fingers, a brush or a sponge. This is not only the most long-lasting of all the types of eye shadow but it is the most easily blended, so that when you are wearing more than one shade, it is simple to avoid any demarcation line between them. Since I like the look of a lighter color from the lashes to the crease of the lid and a darker shade from the crease up to the brow, this becomes important for a faultless application.

.EYE SHADOW APPLICA- TION...

Because pressed shadow is the one I prefer, this is the application I want to discuss. However, many of the prin- ciples will apply to any format. The color that is to be applied from the roots of the upper lashes to the crease of the lid- a doeskin, for example-should go on first. If you are right- handed, use your left hand to hold the skin of the upper lid taut, pulling slightly toward the temple. Be sure the color gets into the outer corner,

where it should be more intense and disappear neatly, blending with the foundation. Should the eye shadow have crumbled or inadvertently been applied where you don't want it, soften it away with a tissue. Shadow of ANY kind tends to collect in the crease and in the inner corner as the day wears on, and it can become quite messy. Also be sure that no shadow has landed where you don't want any, such as on the cheeks or the sides of the nose.

Stroke coppery brown onto the upper lid to the brow, working again toward the outer area. Make the first strokes in the middle of the brow bone, then work the color to the inner corner, then to the outer. Mid-brow is a good